Hac Sa Beach

This guide to Hac Sa Beach in Macau starts by asking why the sand under your feet doesn't quite match the name, tracing the glauconite that once made this Coloane Island shore genuinely black and the typhoons that began carrying it away. It also lingers on Coloane itself, the one corner of Macau the casino industry never reached, and on Fernando's Restaurant, grilling sardines and clams outdoors since 1986. Look down before you listen, and see what stands out against what you expected.