Prčanj

This guide to Prčanj, a waterfront village on the Bay of Kotor, follows the cargo rather than the captains: the cheese, candles, salted sardines and olive oil that filled its ships' holds. It touches the figs and olives grown on the slopes above the road, and a seventeenth-century Venetian decree that turned the villagers into full-time sailors. Best heard on the waterfront, with the church in view.