Our Lady of the Rocks

This guide to Our Lady of the Rocks, off Perast in the Bay of Kotor, starts with a sailors' custom of one stone per voyage and a sum that refuses to work out. It goes back to a summer day in fourteen fifty-two, when two sailors spotted something on a bare reef and their town wanted a church with nowhere to stand. Best heard on the terrace by the water's edge, looking down at the sea.