Trsteno Beach

This guide to Trsteno Beach, the sandy cove just west of Budva, is about money: who gets to rent out a public beach in Montenegro, and what a rare stretch of fine sand is worth on a coast of pebbles. It follows a state auction for the right to run the cove, and a Russian oligarch whose land holdings reach from the headland behind you. Best heard standing on the sand, looking back toward Cape Platamuni.