Crvena glavica beach

This guide to Crvena Glavica beach near Sveti Stefan, just down the coast from Budva, is about appetite: how a cove under a red volcanic hill became a place where people come to eat and drink as much as to swim. It follows a beach bar called Galija, its seafood kitchen and its champagne list, and the price of where you choose to lie down. Best heard from the pebbles, facing the red headland.