Buljarica Beach

This guide to Buljarica Beach, just south of Petrovac on the Budva Riviera, looks past the empty sand to the late-summer years when a dance-music festival took over this shore. It follows the sister event of Serbia's EXIT festival, the stars who played here, and a quarrel over public money in the spring of twenty twenty-three. Best heard standing midway along the beach, with the reed beds at your back.