World Cup Park

This guide to World Cup Park in Seoul starts with an elderly local named Oh, who remembers what this hill smelled like when it was two garbage mounds rising nearly a hundred meters, fed by fifteen years of the city's trash and fires that broke out underground. It traces how the site's fate changed once Seoul and Japan agreed to co-host the World Cup, and engineers moved in to deal with the mountains of waste. Best heard partway up the two hundred ninety-one steps toward Haneul Park.