National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul

This guide to the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Seoul centers on the night of December 12, 1979, when soldiers moved through this courtyard as an army general launched a mutiny against his own chief from the headquarters that once stood here. It also traces the site back six hundred years earlier, to Jongchinbu, the Joseon-era office that kept the royal family's genealogy, two of whose buildings still stand among the galleries. Look for where the old brick facade meets the newer gallery walls built around it.