Hamdeok Beach

This guide to Hamdeok Beach on Jeju opens with the count of confirmed fatal shark attacks in Korean waters since 1959, then takes you to an ordinary Monday in July 2019, when someone in the crowd on this busiest of Jeju's beaches spotted a fin near the footbridge to the east. Lifeguards blew the whistle and cleared the shallows while city staff filmed whatever was cutting through the surf. Look east now, past the small volcanic cone of Seoubong, toward the bridge where it happened.