Gwaneumsa Temple Jeju

This guide to Gwaneumsa Temple on the slopes of Hallasan follows a modern temple stay, from a hundred-plus bows to a night walk counting prayer beads by moonlight. It traces the temple's repeated destruction and rebuilding, from a 1702 order that tore down every temple on Jeju to its slow revival in the early 1900s and its role on the front line of the 1948 Jeju uprising. Listen for the temple bell at dusk, and what its sound has come to carry.