Yakushi-ji

This guide to Yakushi-ji in Nara starts with an optical trick: the pagoda's six roofs hide only three actual floors, an illusion an American scholar once called frozen music. It traces the temple back to Emperor Tenmu's vow in 680, made when his wife fell ill, through its move to Nara and into the Warring States era, when soldiers burned the compound and melted the gold from its bronze Buddha. From there it turns to the two pagodas standing side by side today, one far older than the other looks. Stand between them and see if you can tell which is which before you're told.