Yanagibashi Rengo Market

This guide to Yanagibashi Rengo Market in Fukuoka opens with a puzzle: guidebooks can't agree how many shops fill this century-old arcade, known locally as Hakata's kitchen since a single fishmonger set up here in 1916. It follows the owner of the building at the market's center, who wanted it gone, and the lawsuit that sent shopkeepers into prefabricated stalls in a parking lot with a promise to return. Listen for the seam between the market's oldest stalls and its newest.