Church of Saint Zeno

This guide to the Church of Saint Zeno in Verona opens with the Adige River flooding to the windowsills in 589 and mysteriously halting outside the doors, as recorded by Pope Gregory the Great. From there it traces Zeno back to his life as a fisherman before he became Verona's bishop, and to the bronze doors where sculptors carved him holding a fishing rod instead of a crozier across seventy-three panels cast between the tenth and twelfth centuries. You'll also hear about the crypt below, where his sarcophagus rests among forty-nine columns. Look for the panel where the fish still dangles from his line.