Chiesa di Santo Stefano

This guide to Chiesa di Santo Stefano in Verona opens with four small skeletons in a Baroque chapel, said for centuries to be the bones of the Holy Innocents killed on King Herod's order. Consecrated in 421, the church held the bodies of bishops for four centuries and the relics of forty martyred saints, leaving its builders to solve an unusual problem in stone. You'll hear about the tenth-century crypt below, its four dark granite columns hauled from Egypt, and the seventeenth-century chapel a wealthy Veronese commissioned for the tiny relics. Stand in the nave and look up at the apse ringing it in two tiers.