Caffè Filippini

This guide to Caffe Filippini in Verona's Piazza delle Erbe follows three objects that have survived since 1901: a painted sign, a single lamp, and a wooden door with four swinging panels, despite the cafe calling its own renovation complete. It traces the Filippini family's more than 125 years pouring coffee on the city's oldest square, and a later owner who stripped back the ground floor expecting nothing but new flooring underneath. Look up at the gallery over your head before you sit down.