Galleria Doria Pamphilj

This guide to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj in Rome centers on Diego Velázquez's portrait of Pope Innocent X, painted around 1650 only after the artist proved himself with a portrait of his own servant, Juan de Pareja. It traces the pope's reported private reaction to seeing his own likeness, and how the palazzo's other treasures, works by Caravaggio, Titian and Raphael, still belong to the same family that once sat for it. Descendants of that family narrate part of the tour themselves.