Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

This guide to the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere in Rome traces a spring of oil said to have seeped from the ground here in 38 BC, read by the neighborhood's Jewish community as a sign of grace to come. It follows the site from a retired soldiers' quarter to Pope Callixtus I's house-church around 220, and on to Pope Innocent II's twelfth-century rebuilding, whose portrait watches from the apse mosaic above. Find the column beside the altar marking where the oil was said to appear.