Chiesa di Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri

This guide to Chiesa di Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri in Pisa opens with a raid gone wrong: on the night of May fifth, fifteen ninety-nine, four hundred Knights of Saint Stephen scaled the walls of Ottoman-held Chios meaning to strike a blow for Christendom, and instead broke into looting. It follows the order Cosimo the First founded in this square, and a century and a half of galleys raiding Ottoman and Barbary shipping, sometimes as rescuers and sometimes as something messier. Inside, you will find the walls hung with dozens of captured banners from that long war. Look for what the painted ceiling above them chooses to show, and what it leaves out.