Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata

This guide to the Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata in Lucca starts with a rule Lucca's bell founders were bound to keep, and a moment in the eleven hundreds when someone broke it anyway, right on this church floor. It follows the 1969 dig that opened the ground beneath the nave, and the layers it uncovered below: a Roman bathhouse, a fourth-century basilica, and a crypt said to hold the relics of Saint Pantaleon. Stand at the rail and look down through all of it at once.