Chandni Chowk

This guide to Chandni Chowk in Delhi returns to March 1739, when the Persian emperor Nadir Shah, having crushed the Mughal army and entered the city as conqueror, climbed the roof of the Sunehri Masjid overlooking this bazaar. It traces the market itself back further, to the Mughal princess Jahanara, who built it as a canal-lined promenade nearly a century earlier, and to the rumor that swept the crowd that Nadir Shah had died. Watch for the golden domes of the Sunehri Masjid above the rooftops — that's the roof he was standing on when the crowd's mood turned against him.