Bugrashov Beach

This guide to Bugrashov Beach in Tel Aviv centers on a single afternoon in June 1948, when a ship called the Altalena, loaded with weapons for an underground militia, ran aground just offshore weeks after Israel declared independence. You'll hear about the standoff between the ship's fighters and the country's brand-new government over who would control those arms, and the young officer manning the guns on the sand. The guide follows what the argument still means to people who stand on this beach today. Best heard facing the water, toward where the ship once sat.