Konoba Varoš

About this audio guide

This guide to Konoba Varos, in Split's old fishermen's quarter of Veli Varos, traces the word konoba to a Latin cellar carved beneath a family home, where fishermen once ate whatever the nets pulled up that morning. It follows how this century-old family kitchen still cooks its peka the slow way, coals and a domed lid, with a wait that starts three hours before you sit down. You'll also hear about pasticada, the braised-beef order for anyone unwilling to wait that long.