Western Market

Western Market in Hong Kong opened in 1906 as Sheung Wan's busiest food market, sixty-seven fish stalls and rooftop water tanks included, and this guide follows the Queen Anne Revival building through occupation-era rationing, its 1988 closure and its 1991 restoration under architect Tao Ho. It settles on Chan Sun, a fabric vendor who started here as an errand boy and has kept his stall going for decades. Listen for how a fish market became a street of cloth.