Man Mo Temple

This guide to Man Mo Temple in Hong Kong opens with rows of hanging incense coils that have burned since 1847, the year Chinese merchants on Hollywood Road found themselves under British law they hadn't chosen. It follows the temple's second life as an unofficial courthouse, the Kung Sor hall where residents settled debts and disputes under the gaze of the gods of literature and war. Look up at the coils still smoldering above the main hall as you walk in.