Lan Kwai Fong

This guide to Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong traces the crooked alley from its prewar life as a flower-seller's lane to the nightlife district a Canadian entrepreneur named Allan Zeman built after opening a restaurant here in 1983. It follows the crowds that grew every weekend through the early nineties, building toward a fateful New Year's countdown on this same sloped junction. Listen for how the slope beneath your feet still tilts the same way it did that night.