Old City

This guide to Jerusalem's Old City centers on October 1898, when Kaiser Wilhelm the Second of Germany, never seen without his towering spiked helmet, rode toward Jaffa Gate to dedicate a church, only to find the medieval opening built for pilgrims on foot, not a monarch on horseback in ceremonial dress. It follows the Ottoman rulers scrambling over the emperor's problem, an old local legend about kings and white horses, and a Jewish journalist named Theodor Herzl who used that same week to seek an audience of his own. Best heard standing right at the gate.