부산 우암동 소막마을

This guide to Uam-dong Somak Village in Busan follows Jeong Han-geum, who fled south during the 1950 Hungnam evacuation and found shelter in the low buildings of Uam-dong, structures Japan had built decades earlier as cattle quarantine barns. It traces how as many as forty refugee families packed into a single shed, each given about thirteen square meters behind plywood walls, and how Jeong opened a small noodle kitchen there in 1952, naming it for the village she could no longer reach. Walk the narrow alleys and notice how their shape still traces the cattle stalls beneath the plywood.