Viaduto Santa Ifigênia

This guide to the Viaduto Santa Ifigênia in São Paulo starts underneath the bridge's ironwork, at Bar Leo, where a former owner named Hermes invented a distinctive way of pouring draft beer and a waiter named Luiz kept serving it for decades, once to a sitting Brazilian president. It also covers the viaduct itself, an art nouveau span of riveted Belgian steel opened in 1913 that once carried downtown workers into a rougher district below. Listen for the story behind Hermes's pour before you look down toward Rua Aurora.