Feira de Antiguidades da Praça Benedito Calixto

This guide to the Feira de Antiguidades da Praça Benedito Calixto in São Paulo counts the more than three hundred folding tables that fill an ordinary parking lot before dawn every Saturday, a fair the Friends of the Praça Benedito Calixto have run since 1987. It backs up into the square's own paperwork fight, started in 1919 by a young lawyer named Oswald de Andrade, who would soon help launch Brazilian modernism, and rejected twice before it was finally approved. Listen near the center of the square for chorinho, the same musicians reportedly playing that spot for decades.