Boulders Beach

This guide to Boulders Beach in Cape Town starts in 1982, when just one or two breeding pairs of penguins waddled ashore onto these granite boulders, refugees from a colony collapsing elsewhere along the coast. It traces the decades of counts that followed and a trawling ban that flooded False Bay with sardines and anchovies, along with how the boulders' rounded, wind-blocked shape shelters nests from hunting gulls. Listen for the braying call that gave these birds their local nickname, jackass penguins.