Parque Jardim da Luz

This guide to Parque Jardim da Luz in São Paulo starts with the nine kinds of animals once penned here for the city's very first zoo, back when this ground was still countryside outside a young city. It follows what happened after the zoo was dismantled decades later, and what a 1999 restoration of the park's Maltese-cross lake turned up hidden beneath its edge. Look up into the old fig trees as you listen, where one animal from that vanished menagerie may still be watching you.