Terraço Itália

This guide to Terraço Itália in São Paulo opens with restaurateur Evaristo Comolatti, who arrived from Italy in 1948 fleeing the hunger of the postwar years and never stopped craving the cooking he had left behind. In 1967 he opened a dining room on the forty-first floor of the brand-new Edificio Italia, then the tallest building in the city, with the mayor cutting the ribbon himself. Fifty years later, the kitchen went looking for its own past, inviting five celebrated São Paulo chefs to take turns at the stoves, one month each.