Museum of Popular Art and Tradition Angeliki Hatzimichali

This guide to the Museum of Popular Art and Tradition Angeliki Hatzimichali in Athens follows the folklorist whose house you're standing in front of, a woman who grew up in Plaka and spent much of her adult life among shepherds and weavers in remote mountain villages, recording customs no one else thought worth saving. You'll hear about the pioneering folk art exhibition she organized in 1921, her wartime work sheltering people from danger during the occupation, and the architect Aristotle Zachos's neo-Byzantine mansion built to look as if it had always stood here. Writers including Kostis Palamas once sat as guests in these same rooms.