Mikrolimano

This guide to Mikrolimano in Piraeus traces a small cove through several names across centuries: Mounichia, one of the war-fleet harbors Themistocles built against the Persians, then Fanari under Byzantine sailors, then Turkolimano under Ottoman rule. It follows the refugee fishermen who built driftwood shacks along the shore with no electricity, and the 1930s visitors who found that poverty picturesque. Look at the boats moored below the seafood tables while you listen for how the name settled.