Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau

This guide to Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau in Strasbourg opens beneath a Tomi Ungerer drawing of grape-pickers dancing bare, and the deliberately crooked, cheap sign that Christophe Andt left unpainted when he took over a shuttered inn here in the early 1980s. It follows the low coffered ceiling by Edgar Mahler and the carved wood panels by Raymond-Emile Waydelich that fill the room, and the bottle-glass windows fused so no passerby can see in. You'll hear about the game Andt still hunts himself and the growers he buys wine from directly. Look for the heart carved into the back of your chair before you sit down to choucroute.