Musée d'Archéologie de Nice / Cimiez

This guide to the Musée d'Archéologie de Nice / Cimiez opens with a pupil-less marble face in a glass case, Antonia Minor, and the Roman garrison town of Cemenelum that Augustus founded on this hill in 14 BC to guard the road to Gaul. It follows the town's arena, bathhouses, and eventual abandonment after fourth-century raids, then leaps forward to the aristocrats and Queen Victoria who returned to this hill for the winter sun. You'll hear how a hotel built for her later became the building where Henri Matisse kept his studio. It's a walk across one hill's several lives.