Cours Saleya

This guide to Cours Saleya in Nice follows socca, the chickpea pancake sold from its stalls, back to a legend from the 1543 Ottoman siege of Nice and forward into the early 1900s, when vendors wheeled portable cookers down to the port before dawn to feed fishermen and laborers. It centers on a Niçoise woman named Térésa, who set up a copper-pan kiosk here in 1928 and talked to everyone who passed. Stand near a stall on a market morning and watch the same pans still hissing.