Punavuori

This guide to Punavuori in Helsinki asks whether tonight's cocktail bars are still playing out an older story, tracing the district's reddish cliffs and its name back through its dockworker cottages and its dense cluster of brothels and beerhouses in the eighteen hundreds. It follows the neighborhood's reputation for disorder into the 1960s, then its turn as a hub of Helsinki's underground music scene in the 1990s and 2000s, anchored by record shops like Digelius. Walk its thirteen small streets and see how much of that restless character still shows through.