Hakaniemen kauppahalli

This guide to Hakaniemen kauppahalli in Helsinki opens on its 1914 debut as, officials boasted, the largest, most modern market hall in Europe, designed by Einar Flinckenberg and Karl Hard af Segerstad and paid for by the stallholders who rented its counters. It follows the hall through repairs in 1956 and 1971, a 2018 renovation that stretched its budget, and the heated glass pavilion that sheltered vendors while it stood empty. Stand among the counters of cheese, cured fish and coffee and consider how many small vendors have kept this shared roof alive.