Finnish National Theatre

This guide to the Finnish National Theatre in Helsinki opens with a puzzle: why the bronze statue of writer Aleksis Kivi out front slumps in despair while every other statue in the city stands proud. It follows Kivi's early triumphs, winning Finland's top literary prize for Kullervo in 1860 and writing the still-performed comedy Nummisuutarit, before critic August Ahlqvist turned on his novel Seven Brothers and kept attacking him in print for years. You'll also hear about sculptor Wainö Aaltonen's chair beneath the statue, carved with scenes from Kivi's own plays.