Mercado de San Fernando

This guide to Mercado de San Fernando in Madrid's Lavapiés neighborhood starts with a mob setting fire to a school on this corner the day after the Spanish Civil War broke out in 1936, and the burned-out lot it left behind. It follows Madrid's decision in 1943 to hold a competition for a covered market on the ashes, architect Casto Fernández-Shaw's winning design of brick, granite and flattened vaults, and the butchers, fishmongers and greengrocers who filled the stalls as the neighborhood rebuilt around them. Best heard while wandering the market's aisles, stall by stall.