Chocolatería San Ginés

This guide to Chocolateria San Gines in Madrid starts with the after-theatre crowds who have ducked into this narrow passageway behind the church of San Gines for thick hot chocolate and churros since 1894. You'll hear about the writer Valle-Inclan, a regular here who folded the shop into his own late-night writing about Madrid's nightlife, and the marble tables and tiled counter that have barely changed since. A reminder that the chocolate here has always kept later hours than dinner itself.