Campo del Moro

This guide to Campo del Moro in Madrid follows a private tunnel dug beneath these gardens around 1809 for King Joseph Bonaparte, so unpopular in his own capital that he rarely dared walk its streets by daylight. You'll hear how his successors used the passage for quiet escapes to Casa de Campo, and how a later king turned to it in April 1931 as the monarchy itself was collapsing. The gardens above, closed to ordinary Madrileños until 1978, take their name from an even older siege on this same slope.