Puerto Viejo

This guide to Puerto Viejo in Bilbao starts in 1973, when a group of friends preparing for the local patron saint festivities opened the red wine they had been saving and found it had turned sour, with no time to replace it. It follows a young man known as Kalimero and the improvised fix he tried with cola, ice and lime, and widens out to the fishing quarter itself, home to the arrantzales and the lemanes, pilots trusted to steer ships safely through the bay's sandbars from a seafarers' house built here in the seventeen hundreds.