Jazīrat Umm Qamar

This guide to Jazirat Umm Qamar, a reef seamount off Hurghada topped by a crescent island whose name means mother of the moon, opens with a diver at twenty seven meters watching a rare Spanish dancer nudibranch unfurl in torchlight. It follows the coral towers, caves and cleaning stations that ring the reef below, the moray eels and Napoleon fish on its gentler southern plateau, and the wall on its far side where barracuda and pelagic fish move through open water.