Tallinn Zoo

This guide to Tallinn Zoo centers on the glass-walled pool in front of you, and on two women, Veronika Padar and Olivia Elise Luggenberg, who met outside a converted military storehouse in 2012 and watched a polar bear pace a room the zoo itself called too small. You'll hear about the four-year campaign they ran afterward, New Home for Polar Bears, raising money coin by coin through supermarket boxes, a telephone charity line and an art auction. The guide follows how the city eventually matched their fundraising and a construction crew broke ground behind the old storehouse. Look through the underwater tunnel to watch the bear swim directly over your head.