Nõmme Market

This guide to Nõmme Market in Tallinn opens with an odd pairing, a ski jump and vegetable stalls, and traces it back a century to the eccentric nobleman Nikolai von Glehn, who turned this pine forest into Estonia's fashionable summer retreat. It follows wealthy Tallinn families building wooden villas among the dunes, winter crowds drawn by real ski jumps and cross-country trails, and the small farmers' market that sprang up around 1908 selling berries, mushrooms and butter to that resort crowd. Von Glehn built himself a castle nearby, and locals never quite settled on whether to call him a scientist or something else entirely.