Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum

This guide to Kiek in de Kök Fortification Museum in Tallinn starts at the entrance wall, where cannonballs fired by Ivan the Terrible's army in 1577 are still lodged in the stone. It follows the thirty eight metre tower's odd name back to guards who could see straight down into the kitchens below, then descends into the tunnels Swedish engineers dug in the 1680s beneath the bastion earthworks, later fitted with bunk beds and ventilation as a Cold War fallout shelter. You'll hear who moved into the tunnels after the Soviets walked away, and what it took to reclaim the passages decades later. Stand at the entrance and count the dents in the stone before you head underground.