Kalamaja Cemetery Park

Kalamaja Cemetery Park in Tallinn was once the city's oldest graveyard, in continuous use for four centuries after Swedish soldiers were buried here in 1561. The guide follows Evald Talving, the cemetery's last watchman, who kept telling visitors who used to lie beneath the ground long after the graves themselves were gone. It also lingers on the squat gate tower raised in 1780, and the odd, worn stone slabs kept inside it that most visitors mistake for ordinary headstones. Look closely at the tower before you walk on.