MUSEUM MMK FÜR MODERNE KUNST

This guide to the MMK in Frankfurt opens with an unsettling fact: most of the people who work inside this cheerful triangular building, nicknamed the Tortenstuck for its cake-slice shape, once signed an anonymous letter demanding it change. It traces the building back to architect Hans Hollein's 1980s design, built to hold pop art by Andy Warhol and Joseph Beuys, then follows a 2019 letter from staff describing a climate that had turned frightening under a new director. Three years later, in April 2022, about four in five employees signed a second letter.